HVAC Home Improvement Tax Credits

HVAC home improvement tax credits are back by popular demand, or should I say, unpopular demand.In 2005, the Bush administration implemented the federal tax credit for energy efficiency.This tax credit covers a broad spectrum of home improvements, but for the sake of this writing,we are concentrating on the HVAC, home improvement tax credits that allow homeowners to take advantage of direct tax credits for replacing older inefficient heating and air conditioning systems with higher efficiency, Energy Star rated appliances.

The original 2005 program ran through and expired at the end of December, 2007.Home improvements made during 2008 were not eligible for this program, but, in light of the ever increasing economic downturn nearing the close of last year, on October 3, 2008, President Bush signed into law the "Emergency Economic Stabilization Act of 2008."This bill extended tax credits for energy efficient Home Heating & Cooling System improvements. Tax credits for these residential products, which had expired at the end of 2007, will again be available for improvements made during 2009.

The following Tax Credits available for these HVAC improvements include:

$300- Split System Air Conditioning- 15 SEER Minimum
$300- Air Source Heat Pumps- 9HSPF or 15 SEER Minimum
$150-Gas, Oil, Propane Furnace or Hot Water Boiler- 95% AFUE Minimum
$50- Advanced Main Air Circulating Fan- < 2% furnace total energy use

What this means to you the taxpayer, by purchasing.For example, a qualifying air conditioning unit, along with a qualifying gas furnace, where the additional advanced Main Air circulating fan, which in layman's terms "variable speed drive", you would qualify for up to a $500 tax credit that you can apply to your 2009 federal income tax filing.

If you're considering upgrading you're heating and air-conditioning system, 2009 will be a great year for that, and these additional tax credits will allow you to upgrade your homes energy efficiency.It is important to note, that not all ENERGY STAR qualified homes and products qualify for a tax credit. Tax credits are available for a number of products at the highest efficiency levels, which can cost more than standard products.ENERGY STAR distinguishes energy efficient products which, although they may cost more to purchase than standard models, will pay you back in lower energy bills within a reasonable amount of time, even without a tax credit.

These tax credits are not automatic.You must submit a form that authenticates your specific qualifying brand and model numbers.Your HVAC contractor or supplier should furnish these documents.Qualifying brands and models can be found at the U.S. Government Energy Star Website.

Jay Boyd owns his own heating and air conditioning store Home Air Direct where he helps the do-it-yourselfer save money. His blog site Ask Boyd contains numerous tips and stories involving the HVAC industry.

Wall Spacing For Home Building

Remodeling and building homes over the years I have seen all sorts of stud spacing measurements in bearing and non-bearing walls.

How far should we space a framing stud in a bearing wall?

Most plans will give you this information. If you have a structural shear wall the plans will tell you what size of lumber to use at the plywood breaks. The normal spacing on a bearing wall will be 16 inches on center unless otherwise noted on the building plans. This is the most common spacing for studs in a wall.

How far can we space framing studs in a nonbearing wall?

I have seen studs spaced as far as 24 inches on center in a nonbearing wall. Over the years looking at the building code books I have found this to be acceptable for most framing applications. Do not confuse a nonbearing walls with a structural shear walls because there is no weight sitting on the shear wall.

Interior structural shear walls will require 16 inch on center spacing or less depending on the structural engineer and your local building department.

What are the disadvantages of spacing the studs 24 inches on center?

Using half-inch drywall with 24 inch on center stud spacing can give the wall a week or spongy feel. I have been in houses that have 24 inch on center's stud spacing and can actually push the wall and see it move. Using 5/8 drywall will solve this problem in your walls.

What are the advantages of spacing the studs 24 inches on center?

The only advantage in spacing the studs farther apart is the fact you will be able to save a few dollars on the overall cost of building or remodeling your house. I personally do not recommend this process because the savings is miniscule compared to the overall cost of building the entire house.

If you look on a measuring tape between 19 and 20 inches you will usually find a little diamond. This little diamond is another measurement for laying out eight-foot walls or floors. So instead of using 16 inch on center layout you can use 19 1/4 for stud spacing. This will save you an additional stud in your wall or floor joist every 8 feet.

I have been writing more articles on home construction problems trying to help contractors and homeowners build safer stronger houses.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as

well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on building and remodeling your homes in San Marcos Home Building

2 Layers Of Old Composition

Harvesting Rainwater - Home Advice

The so-called "green" harvesting of roof-shed rainwater with above-ground rain barrels or catch tanks reduces the watershed that currently overloads some of our municipal sewer and storm-water drainage systems. Still, could we do the same thing by installing underground cisterns similar to those used during the 1800's and early 1900's?

Description of theearlier cisterns

Many older homes and estates today still have the remnants of their early underground rainwater cisterns. These fairly large round, water-tight, root-free, 500-to-5000-gallon cisterns were madefrom brick, stone, rock, plaster,concrete, or combinations of these materials. They were each capped withan above-ground manhole-typeof openinglarge enough totake a big bucket. Thisopeningallowed the cisternto be periodically cleaned-out and repaired by the owner or by a third-party service.

The tin or zinc-plated guttering used on the house eaves then, whichcarriedthe rainwaterdown to the cisterns, were open and not covered. So,quite a bitofwind-blown tree leaves andseeds,and other debriscould maketheir into the cisterns. For that reason, the suction end of theiron plumbingwas located above the cistern floor, where the debris would eventually settle.

This relatively clean, soft,outsidewater supplywas plumbed directly tothe long-handle hand-pumps installed at the kitchen and bathroom sinks and thebathtubin the main house. Itwas also plumbed to the hand-pump in a small building behind the house that served as a summer kitchen and a place to wash laundry, to can garden produce, and to butcher chickens and hogs. This water supply remained relatively cool and unfrozen the year around. Generally, it was used for cooking, washing dishes, cleaning, canning, butchering, and bathing. But it could be drunk, too, after boiling it.

Modern cisterns

Modern cisterns operate much like the ones described above. However,instead of being built into the ground from scratch, they are buried prefabricated ones instead. That is, these cisternscould beprefabricated concrete receptacles, orthey could be large prefabricated heavy-duty plastic tanks capped withfairly large screw-on tops, similar to the ones seen on certain lawn-treatment trucks.

Also,today'saluminum, steel, plastic, or coppereave gutterswill haveporous or solidcoverings. Thus, the amount of debris entering the cisterns from the rooftops will be minimal. Yet, the fine sand-like material shed by asphalt or composite shingles willneed to be filtered out earlyduring the harvesting process; else, it will eventually have to be removed from the buried cistern. Theplumbing for the moderncisternwill beheavy plastic pipe. Of course, the pump itself will probably be an electric one, its size and accessories will depend on how the harvested water is used.

More-than-likely, becausemost of us alreadyhavereliable purified municipal indoor drinking and bathing water supplies, this cistern water will be used for outdoor purposes, like, for the sprinkling of lawns and gardens, for filling fish ponds and small treated swimming pools,for watering trees and animals, and for washing vehicles, driveways, patios, decks,andhouses.The following three advantages ofthe modernburied cistern system suggest this technology will work well today: 1) theyare hidden from view and out-of-the-way by being underground, 2) theydo not foster the production ofalgae or mosquitoes in the summer time, and 3) theyhelp conserve themunicipal storm-drainage systemsand drinking water supplies.

Further information on cisterns

Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia Cistern http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cistern

Author contact: j__l__d@sbcglobal.net

Fixings Squeaky Stairs - Home Repairs

Oh yes the common problem of squeaking stairs in an older house. This could become very frustrating and annoying as you walk up and down the stairs. There seems to be one or two stair treads that are always squeaking. That annoying sound as you walk as softly as you can on your way down to the kitchen in the middle of the night to grab a quick snack.

The number one cause of squeaking stairs is when the nails used to fasten the stair tread to the stair strainers has worked its way loose. Over time as the lumber shrinks in the stair treads and the stairs stringers. You will start to develop a separation or a gap between the stair tread and the stair strainer.

The stair stringer can shrink as much as 3/8 of an inch in just a few years. I was building a home and went to measure the stair stringer that was 11 1/2 inches wide originally. Then I measured it after two months outside in the summer sun it now measured 11 1/16". I was amazed that the lumber could shrink that much in such a short period of time.

As the stair stringer shrinks it starts to pull away from the plywood or hardwood stair tread. As it starts to separate from the stair tread the nail will stay in its original position until the stair tread starts to put pressure on the nail eventually lifting it up a little bit higher than its original position.

As you step on the stair tread the squeaking sound you hear is the nail rubbing against the stair tread. There are a few ways to fix a squeaking stair tread. If you have access to under the stairway you can apply some adhesive along with a 10 inch 2 x 4 under the stair tread and attach it to the stair stringer.

First apply adhesive to two sides of the 2 x 4. The adhesive will be used to glue the stair tread to the stair stringer. You can use screws to screw the new 2 x 4 onto the side of the stair stringer.

If you cannot access the underside of the stairs and you have carpeting you can actually locate the stair stringer and drive a 2 inch screw through the carpeting in to the stair stringer. This will pull the stair tread down and will not allow it to rub up against the nail making that awful sound of a squeaking stair case.

If you have a finished wood stair tread you will not be able to screw through it into the stair stringer without damaging the finish on tread itself. It will be easier to access the stair stringer from below somehow and apply the 2 x 4 with the adhesive to stop the stair squeak.

You can apply these methods to as many stair treads that are squeaking without taking apart the entire staircase and rebuilding it.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Stair Building

Corner Roof Fascia Damage

Resources For Professional Contractors

It is often said in the marketing world that it costs far less to retain an existing client than to acquire a new one. Past clients not only provide the opportunity for repeat business, they can also be excellent sources of referrals for future contracts. Even if you rely mainly on word-of-mouth to acquire new clients, you do not have to leave it up to chance and hope that clients will recommend your services. There are a few ways to keep your name at the forefront of clients' minds so that you get a call when they are ready to embark on a new construction or remodeling project. Here are a few ideas to help you do just that:

Make a positive impression that lasts. Clients must have confidence in you before they will recommend your services to friends and family, so building repeat and referral business starts at your first conversation. Whether you are on the phone with a client, at a meeting or on the job site, professionalism should be displayed in your demeanor, quality of work and in the way you interact with other people. Whether dealing with the client, a subcontractor or the neighbor from next door, always be conscious of how your words and behavior could be perceived.

Use follow-up to keep your name on clients' minds. Even satisfied clients can lose your contact information, particularly when their projects are spaced out over time. Since repeat business hinges on positive relationships, staying in touch can mean the difference between loyal clients and clients who forget your name. One way to stay in touch is sending periodic cards to your client list for major holidays or their birthdays. A regular e-mail newsletter is another way to maintain contact unobtrusively. Be sure to maintain a friendly, professional tone and practice moderation in the frequency of such communication, staying in touch without bombarding clients with too much information.

Give the kind of business cards that stick around. Consider stocking up on magnetic business cards or promotional items such as magnetic mini-calendars showing your business name and contact information. Such items provide another means of keeping your name in front of clients, helping them remember your name, what you do and how to contact you. Whereas a paper business card will most likely go into a client's wallet or the trash, a magnetic calendar may stay on the refrigerator all year long. You may consider sending promotional items to your client list as freebies together with holiday or birthday cards as suggested above.

Make it personal. Clients will be more inclined to call you again if they feel you truly care about their needs. When you send a card, letter or e-mail to a client, try to include a note that makes the message personal. Personalizing a message may involve taking more detailed notes about clients from your first meeting. Perhaps in conversation with a client, he or she mentioned an interest in remodeling a bathroom in the coming year. A well-timed follow up stating that you would love to provide a quote for the bathroom project will show the client that you are attentive to his or her needs, and your meticulous follow-up could give you just the edge needed to win the job.

Relationship marketing is a field in and of itself, and there are plenty of companies that would be happy to implement some of these ideas for you if you do not wish to do so yourself. Making a positive impression and staying in touch with your client base can help you acquire repeat business and new clients on an ongoing basis.

Maria Polidoro is the CEO of Ace Tool Online, a New York based authorized dealer for virtually all major hand and power tool manufacturers. Ace Tool offers a comprehensive electric power tool selection including Milwaukee tools, Festool power tools, Amana tools and Champion Tool. Please visit Ace Tool Online for more information and great prices on power tools.

Cost Effective Roofing Ideas

Modern roofs are much more than coverings to keep out the elements; they are an investment and can be a costly expense if not well cared for. Roofs of the past let hot summer air and the winter cold into the uppermost regions of a facility or private home. As facility managers looks for ways to reduce overhead and maintenance costs, roofing is becoming a focal point for those who need to manage the health of their buildings as well as their energy costs.

Choose the Material for your Climate

There has been a marked increase in roofing manufacturers since 1970 till now there are about 500. New energy efficient roofs have taken the place of the old chemically based sheets of shingles. Not only do they save energy but they last anywhere from ten to forty years longer than their predecessors. With proper maintenance a new, energy efficient roof can protect a business for up to fifty years!

Not only do you have a wide variety of materials to choose from, there are many different roofing materials to serve different needs. Those in climates with long, hot summers might want to choose a new tile roof that draws hot air in at the eave level and expels it at the ridge, using hot air's natural cycle of rising to keep the building cool. Chemical roofs were once the norm but now roofs are more complex-cool roofs, metal roofs, even green roofs are becoming more common. Cool metal roofing would be more efficient for tropical climates and save up to forty percent on energy costs. Old asphalt roofs trapped heat whereas metal reflects it. These cool metal roofs can also reduce the temperature of a neighborhood by about twelve degrees!

How Modern Roofing Works

A roof that keeps hot air away from the building can save thousands on indoor climate control. The temperatures on a roof can reach 150-190 degrees and new energy saving materials can keep that heat away from the interior of the building. During the replacement cycle that all roofs have, replacing old school roofing with new energy saving materials and extras can save a significant amount of money. By keeping the hot air moving away from the roof, the air conditioning unit doesn't have to work as hard, extending its life and saving on maintenance costs.

Extras Will Save More than they Cost

Extras that can be added onto an existing roof, such as sky lights and vents, can also extend the life of a building. Tinted skylights will reflect harmful UV rays while making use of natural lighting while un-tinted skylights can allow in the warmth of the winter sun. Many facility managers are staggering both types of skylights and adding interior shields in order to take advantage of natural light in all seasons and solar warmth during the cold season.

Regular inspections, especially before or after severe weather incidents will extend the life of your roof while the cost of such inspections are actually investments in your roof's longevity and efficiency. Inspections can catch a few loose shingles or tiles before they turn into costly repairs.

Rialto Management Corp. manages properties in New York city. For more information about NYC building management or New York City building management please visit their website.

Stopped Losing Your Car Keys

Wood Rot Problems In Your House

Let me give you some advice right now," All Wood Rots Eventually". I have heard it all when it comes to this wood or that wood lasting this long or that long........ Hello....... All wood is going to rot at some period of it's life.

With that out of the way we can focus on some wood seems to last a little longer under certain conditions.

Teak is a wood that has a lot of natural oil in it. But you won't frame a house with it. Teak is used on boats and expensive outdoor furniture. It is a excellent wood to use when building a ship. The woods natural oils seem to create a protective barrier around it allowing it to last a long time even at sea. Great wood for the outdoors...

Oak is a excellent choice for almost every wood finish inside your home. It is used for kitchen cabinets, entertainment centers, flooring, trim and furniture. Oak is a hard wood and can take a lot of abuse from almost anything except water. I have seen a nice piece of furniture get stained from just setting one glass on it for ten minutes. Great Wood For Inside Your Home.

Poplar is also a great choice for inside your house. This wood is used by many finish carpenters for making cabinets and other built ins for your house. It is also popular not poplar for wood trim . Most of the poplar that is used inside of your home will eventually get painted. So that makes poplar a inexpensive choice of wood for homeowners that want a nice painted finish on their interior wood projects. Great Wood For Inside Your Home.

Douglas Fir is the most common source of lumber used on the west coast of the United States. This is a extremely durable wood product. On the East Coast they use southern pine and the nominal thickness is usually two inches by four inches for a 2 x 4 . With Douglas Fir a 2 x 4 is one inch and a half by three and one half inches to support the same weight structurally. In my opinion one of the best home framing materials.

Douglas Fir can and has been for a long time now. A great source for clear finish materials used inside of the house. You will see a nice orange or brown looking piece of wood stained naturally in some older home. This is Douglas Fir. It can be a bit pricy but really gives a log cabin look to your home.

Redwood is a great choice for inside or outside your home. I love Redwood it has a nice look to it stained naturally. Redwood is used for a lot of siding, fences, decks and out door furniture. The main problem with Redwood is that is is soft and will get scratched easily. Now for the facts about Redwood. It does rot and termites will eat it.

Wood myth number one eliminated. I have heard stories about wood that termites won't eat. Well Redwood is not one of them. I have seen termites tearing this stuff up. Don't get caught up in the hype that this or that wood will last for 5 years or 50 years. Under the right conditions almost all woods will rot at a accelerated rate.

For more information on wood damage, check out wood repair at http://gregvan.com/wood_repair.htm

Copyright 2008 Greg Vanden Berge All Rights Reserved

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry. Few Home Remodeling Rules

2 X 4 Bottom Plate Dry Rot